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Let's unbox, review and test this lens to find out why it is one of the best bang for your buck deals in astrophotography! Some people do not like this and consider Bokeh to refer only to the rendering of out of focus points of light. Rokinon 135mm F/2 Lens for ASTROPHOTOGRAPHY. Used on a crop body the results are still splendid but you gain on DOF, making it a great combination for wedding/event and ambient/available light. Some people may disagree with the vignetting being a good thing or not, but thats a matter of taste I guess. Comment * document.getElementById("comment").setAttribute( "id", "a0721c0ca7d0974fd27b5d0ceb81918a" );document.getElementById("cfd2c22fe2").setAttribute( "id", "comment" ); Your email address will not be published. SharpStar Askar ACL200 200-mm f/4 astrographic telephoto lens, Astrotrac 360 tracking platform first impression, FIELD TEST: CARL ZEISS APOCHROMATIC & SHARPEST (CZAS) BINOVIEWER, Deus_Ex_Mamiya and Michael Covington like this. The first telephoto lens of choice, especially recommended for beginners, is the 135mm F2.5 SMC Pentax. Extrapolating from this, minimum recommended guidescope power is 120x for the 300mm telephoto, 80x for the 200mm, and 55x for the 135mm. I bought a Fotasy Minolta MD->EOSM adapter off ebay for $11, and then for about $20 each on craigs list really sharp, well built Minolta MC 28mm f2.8, 50mm f1.4, and 135mm f2.8 lenses that turned out to be great for astrophotography. Second of all, the incredible sharpness of the photo: I have owned many lenses, most of which I bought because they were supposed to have world-class sharpness, but the Samyang 135mm still stands out to me. When all that was available were APS-C crop cameras a 85mm lens provided a near equivalent view angle to the 135mm on a full frame camera. One of them is simplicity: A clear, simple subject that constitutes a shape, standing out and contrasting against a calm and simple background. Deep-sky astrophotography is often associated with a camera and telescope, but the truth is there are a lot of great camera lenses for astrophotography out there. When stopped down to 37mm, F5.4, it is almost identical to the Takumar except that on highly enlarged images it shows a hint of coma in the distant corners. A Bargain, very competively priced Some noteworthy targets to try. (purchased for $900), reviewed November 2nd, 2015 This is so annoying that I intend to replace the Canon lens cap with a Tamron cap. The image is a 90-second exposure at ISO 400 using a Canon EOS 60Da. Overall, spectacular lens. The F/2.0 maximum aperture of the Rokinon 135mm lens offers a chance to collect a serious amount of signal in a single shot. This criticism refers to rare cases when your main subject matter is flat and completely inside the limited DOF range while the rest of the image is outside. The best of them, Nikon's 70-200E, is just as sharp all but the very best primes - ie, already too sharp for most portrait work. With weather sealing this would be a 10. With an effective focal length of roughly 216mm when coupled with a Canon crop sensor body, the field of view is nearly identical to the one youd find on a full-frame camera with a 200mm telephoto lens. The best ones listed below serve well with a one stop reduction, and some require two or even three stops. This is one of my all time favourites. (Dpreview), Use the 500 Rule to find the Perfect Exposure Length for Astrophotography, Use a DSLR Ha Filter for Astrophotography, AstroBackyard | Astrophotography Tips and Tutorials2023, Optical Construction: 11 Glass elements in 7 Groups. It turns out that this. The CA is pretty low wide open and it rivals my 200mm L lens. One of Canon's best lenses for a reasonable price. Interesting. Super sharp from f2. If you have pictures taken using the Rokinon 135mm F/2 lens, please feel free to share your results in the comments section (links to Astrobin, Flickr or your personal gallery are fine). Never before (nor after) have I seen a lens with this level of sharpness wide open. This article was originally published on Micael's blog, and is being republished in full with express permission. But for many of us, somewhere in between, are plenty of short to mid-tele lenses that will deliver solid service (in terms of subject separation) without carrying around still another kilo for the sake of more blur. this lens typifies modern design being confined to sharpness, colour & bokeh. And yet this review is on front page of DPReview prompting me to go and buy this lens -- so surely it must be a professional , well grounded review, right? Hey! I heard it's very sharp and well corrected. Manual focus on wide angle lens, for landscapes, ok, if you have a reliable manual focus system, which Samyang, at least in my mount, does not have. Also, when shooting the heart nebula, is the sky tracker a must or not required? Even if the background is very close to your subject, somehow the optical construction in the 135mm lens will still manage to separate the background beautifully. Most of the available 135mm F2 lenses have a very short minimum focusing distance in relation to the focal length, creating a magnification ratio of around 0.2 - 0.25. It improves slightly stopped down. Perhaps it's not a big thing, but for a L-graded lens this feature should be expected. Many students just wanted to take better snapshots of family, vacation, pets, etc. Contrasty but not harsh. Helps me as a beginner a lot Lots of older lenses no longer satisfy. Sure, the Nifty 50 is an incredible value (and a LOT cheaper), but the 135mm puts you within range of some of the best astrophotography targets in the night sky. Voting ends March 8, 2023. (AVX). "Bokeru" is a verb, and it can apply equally to to optical and psychological effects, including the reduced mental clarity that can some with age. Yuri toropin tests a bunch of lenses on Flickr which is a great source. Valerio, Electronically Assisted Astronomy (No Post-Processing), Community Forum Software by IP.BoardLicensed to: Cloudy Nights, DSLR, Mirrorless & General-Purpose Digital Camera DSO Imaging, This is not recommended for shared computers, Back to DSLR, Mirrorless & General-Purpose Digital Camera DSO Imaging, Buckeyestargazer 2022 in review and New Products. It requires the Contax-EOS adapter for attachment to the camera. IS is useful in my f/4 zooms but I don't need it to hand-hold this lens. Everyone assumes their definition is the "true" one. The lens shows a very slight pincushion distortion, but it's well under 0.1% of frame height, an excellent performance by any measure. A lot of lenses today are better than anything money could buy in 1980. These include canon lens for night photography along with good budget lenses for astrophotography. I would only recommend this lens for casual photographers where missed shot means nothing. never mind.. confirmed from others that F19 is indeed the one that is excluded on this lens! These lenses can be had on eBay in mint condition for around $70, and are probably the most price efficient optical instrument in the world. Amazing colours, contrast, bokeh, everything! Still, what a time to be an enthusiast/photog, so many nice options. Last time I used a 135mm f2 was decades ago on a Canon F1. Several functions may not work. I bought this lens after reading your great review for my Nikon D5300. But, since fast 300mm ED lenses are beyond my toy budget, I would appreciate seeing magnified center and corner test images of actual star fields. $581.00 for 7 days. The only reason i sell this lens is because of versatility. I agree to some extent with many of the critics of the article and disagree with much of its content, but I also have respect for the the author's right to express those opinions. In this post, Ill share my results using an affordable prime telephoto lens for astrophotography, the Rokinon 135mm F/2.0 ED UMC. Focusing should be done on moderately bright stars using the 10x magnified Live View. Focal length is great. However, for $15 I also bought an old Tamron Adaptall 2, 135 mm f2.5. Most of these APOs have F ratios around 6.5, and are unable to comprehend in their field of view large celestial objects such as the Andromeda galaxy, the North America nebula, and comets. Really excels as indoor sports lens on a crop camera. Star parties or dark sky excursions are another great time to use a camera lens in place of the telescope. About 3 hours of exposures split between Narrowband, Broadband and short exposure shots to make an HDR image. A specialist lens, at best, though I did enjoy the cat image. My first photo of the night sky is of Comet NEOWISE, however I know its not the best photo I could capture. Ive captured a lot of deep-sky astrophotography targets from the northern hemisphere, but Im usually in too deep to capture an entire region of space at once. The lens hood is not petal-shaped, which is great news for those using this lens for astrophotography. EF-mount only, this packs more megapixels, a bigger sensor, and a high max ISO. (purchased for $900). The main problem with the old lenses is spherical aberration and colour error, especially pronounced on digital sensors. Used with a FF body the DOF can be unforgiving, but if you nail focus the results can be magnificent. I find neither the cat nor the duck particularly good. Since Eric was so generous to share his images with me, I had to include his photo of the Rho Ophiuchi cloud complex as well. If you want the best value possible for your money, and can survive without autofocus, buy the Samyang. To shoot indoors under typical gymnasium lighting, you often need f/2.0 or wider to get a shutter speed high enough to stop the action. The Olympus Zuiko 180/2.8 and 100/2.8 impressed me in the 1980s, but in the digital era they are not so sharp. I shoot dozens of weddings every year but the 135mm stayed in my bag a majority of the time; I just didn't find myself needing to use it. I have just acquired my astrophotography set up thanks to all your videos and doing some research. The North America Nebula captured using the 135mm lens with a clip-in Ha filter. I had of course heard that this lens is supposed to be very sharp, but I had never before had such a full blown "wow" experience when reviewing the sharpness of a lens. Together they still weight less than any modern 135mm :>. Why would I want a 135/2.0 lens when I have a 135/1.8? For DPReview, it's also an opportunity for a good old-fashioned camera fight. Great for portraits. The sigma 150mm f2.8 tests very well, zeiss 135mm apo sonnar, and leica 180mm f3.5 apo all proven performers on star tests. Jordan has a simple fix camera manufacturers could implement to improve their video autofocus. Check out some of the photos he took. If canon puts an IS on this lens, it would be perfect! But If you want the "look" you get with a medium telephoto at f/2, hen all those negatives become irrelevant. When i just judge by the indicator line as i click through, it seems like its 19 that gets skipped wondering if there is anything more definite? He's better than I am on BS, I got to give him that. You can use Stellarium to preview the image scale with the 135mm lens and your DSLR. And as this article clearly shows, no amount of blurr will make a poorly composed photo good. (And cost less too). The aesthetic quality of the blur in the out-of-focus parts of the image are buttery smooth and soft. Lots of wet blankets around here. Here are our top picks for the canon lenses for astrophotography. It's sharp, has very low aberrations, no real distortion and the bokeh is very nice. Although if Bokeh and sharpness is your thing and you can live with MF the Laowa 105mm f/2 Smooth Trans Focus (STF) is amazing. The other one is the inevitable and persistent regret that, because of chromatic aberration, the full 75mm aperture of this beautiful lens can not be used in full visible spectrum photography. Fit and finish are first-rate as well, with very smooth manual focus operation, and very fast autofocus on the camera. Some lenses are incurable. But for me, the reason to get this lens is the Bokeh and DOF control. While they provide a very large flat field we noticed some CA. If you aren't completely set on the 135mm, the 200mm f/2.8L is a fantastic lens and i think its less expensive than the 135mm f/2L. Required fields are marked *. She's cold? Back in 1999, Sony released the F505, their first digital camera with a Carl Zeiss lens. @juksu - you're such a liar. The aperture range of this lens is F/2 to F/22, with 9 diaphragm blades (aperture blades) that work in harmony to set your f-stop. I was expecting a lot more of an article that says "the best telephoto lenses for astrophotography". Well, after lugging that lens around for years, I'm experimenting with adding the 135L back to my kit. I cant decide whether to clean it up in processing or let it be. The Canon is about as sharp as the Samyang, but it has some very slight chromatic aberration. Testing on an EOS-5D, we see that it's sharpness is almost as good wide open in the corners as on the EOS-20D with its smaller sensor. When i check a F stop chart, i see 15 stops if i count the main, and the secondary ones: 2, 2.4, 2.8, 3.3, 4, 4.8, 5.6, 6.7, 8, 9.5, 11, 13, 16, 19, 22. Excellent build quality, fast auto focus, and its fast. This new, affordable wide zoom for L-mount is capable of some excellent landscapes. It's small, light, cheap and extremely wide but is it any good? The 70-200L being a much more useful lens. In this post, Ill explain why I think the Rokinon 135mm F/2 is the perfect addition to an arsenal of astrophotography lenses. Its fast f/2.0 maximum aperture is effective in low light and enables shallow depth of field control. Whatever lens you pick in the end, you will make a great purchase. Material on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted or otherwise used without the prior written consent of The Imaging Resource. I cant seem to find this documented anywhere. I really don't want to count all the pores - and the hairs coming out of them (eeeew!) You got a criticism fine say it politely, and too the point. I can tell you its a great performer for astro use. This is a fully manual lens, meaning that it does not have autofocus, and you must manually select the f-stop . Test Notes Pocketable. In general, prime telephotos should outperform zooms. Wonderful, smooth bokeh. Backwards compatible (film). 85 Is a different story, my 85 gets used a lot. I took a few shots with the lens on my way home after buying it. At the other end of the aperture range though, the 5D's larger pixels actually help matters, as the softening starts later (it's very sharp even at f/16), and is noticeably lower at f/32. You're right, but a headshot is exactly where I want to see all those megapixels I bought put to use! In this review, however, I am using the lens on a crop sensor (APS-C) Canon EOS 60Da, which puts the field of view at 12.4 degrees. wew.. But I hardly used it in the 30+ years. They're heavy, and expensive, but you can carry one lens instead of three, and can vary the compression and field of view to a significant degree - from nearly normal, to long portrait focal lengths. Light weight and robust. Over the years, Ive shot deep-sky targets at varying focal lengths from 50mm to over 1000mm. That setup will give you all that you really need. http://www.astrovale-f-2/index.html, Hi Lord_Vader, When stopped down to 49mm it really is indistinguishable from an APO, except it shows red chromatic aberration with modified cameras even with the UV/IR block or CLS-CCD filter. Stage photography is another good use for the 135 L. We take OM System's new 90mm prime F3.5 macro lens out and about around Seattle, in search of sunlight, people and very tiny things to get up close and personal with. Photography is full of fuzzy concepts. I would be careful with the Nikon 135 f/2 DC (I have one). Your first serious portrait lens should be a modern stabilized 70-200 f/2.8. Rokinon lenses are made in Korea, and so is the Samyang variation. The second best, is the Hoya Pro One Digital MC UV(0) filter. Target for bortle 9 astrophotography? I've recently started using 135 and 200mm lenses from the 1970s with my mono CCD and they've proven very useful for imaging large emission nebulae. 2. I was very happy for this reason to eventually get a full frame DSLR in 2007 and sell the 85mm lens and buy a 105mm one to replace it. 24/28mm, 50mm, 100mm, 200mm. We've selected a group of cameras that are easy to keep with you, and that can adapt to take photos wherever and whenever something memorable happens. Sharpness, contrast and the natural vignetting on full-frame cameras is awesome! In this new review, I focus exclusively on the unprecedented Samyang 135mm f/2, which is primarily designed for portrait and wildlife. If you want autofocus and great value for money, buy the Canon 135mm, as it has almost the image quality of the Samyang, and you can get it for under $1,000 new. You're sour grapes man, you wish it were you who wrote the article. Creamy smooth bokeh. A higher-res Blackmagic Studio Camera just dropped. We have come to accept that most lenses are strong in only one or two of these three factors, that I personally focus on when researching lenses to buy. Based on my handful of experiences with this lens in the backyard, I have found these traits to hold true. The lens arrived next day, less than 24 hours after I hit the order button. Already wide open this lens produce some high quality photos. Lens hood - when I bought this lens years ago the included hood was rather cheap (perhaps Canon has updated the hood) by comparison with other hoods. In between interviews with executives of the major companies, Dale Baskin took to the show floor to bring you this report. The one and only 300mm lens I tested is the Zeiss Tele-Tessar 300mm F4. Thanks for sharing your thoughts.No disagreement here. With todays huge variety of digital sensors, each with their own characteristics, in-camera and post-processing etc., much depends on the given combination of your photo gear to create a certain effect. Jordan's twin brother Gordon is back to review the cinema-focused Canon EOS R5 C! When coupled with my Canon DSLR camera, the entire system weighs just over 3 pounds. 135mm and 200mm lenses are suitable for wide angle star-field views, and comet and asteroid hunting, while 300mm lenses serve very well for the Andromeda galaxy, large emission nebulae, open clusters, and even larger globular clusters. First of all, the background separation and the bokeh: I had photographed lots of animals in bushes before, but never before had I seen the bush melt away in the way it did with the 135mm lens. If the title had been: "Testing My First Telephoto and LOVING IT!!!!!!!. My 24-70L needs to be stopped down to f5.6 to begin to match the sharpness of my 135L at f2.0 (the test shots were of the portrait of Andrew Jackson on a $20 bill). How well do Fujifilm's film simulations match up to their film counterparts? This is actually worse than just plain obsession with blur. Yep the speed wars in the 70's that gave us all these bokeh monsters were all about the fact that its hard to get usable images in poor lighting when your film was stuck at iso 80 (or even 400 when you were pushing it). sigh, overdone bokeh and centre sharpness bear little relevance to the art of this hobby. Now we have to read this kind of ignorant misinformation on DPR articles. Ironically all the sample images in this post are painfully soft. The aperture ring is marked with each f-stop, and you need to manually click through F/2 F/22 and watch the blades do their work. One very popular lens for bokeh fiends is the Canon 85mm F1.2it can produce extremely creamy out of focus backgrounds. Since I am interested in wide field astrophotography, I bought a new, unmodified, Canon 600D body for use with telephoto lenses. Canon 135 mm is really E X T R A O R D I N A R Y lens. How good this lens overall and how sharp and color-free? There are times that making no comment at all is far more telling than posting negative - and sometimes offensive - ad hominem attacks on the author for daring to show some enthusiasm. Sure, that would be swellbut it doesn't matter with regard to how it performs. - Actually though, it's performance is so good that you really have to consider it a bargain, even at the $800-900 street price. Every different lens design has different "bokeh" even when the lenses are by specs same, like Canon 135mm f/2 vs Samyang 135mm f/2 are both same, but both render differently, even when both have same DOF. It seems lazy to me. Everyone should have one? And only the cat photo has something OK (but it is a cat shot You easily get them look good). In fact, it might be fun to try! Perhaps I missed it, but did you use a clip-in light pollution filter with your 60D and this lens? We case our eye over the options costing more than $2500 but less than $4000, to find the best all-rounder. It actually makes my eyes water as I try to resolve how bad the blurriness is. If experience has taught me anything, its that the practical, pain-free equipment that gets the most use under the stars. At a local amateur soccer game using the 135 f/2 the action was almost always too close, or too far away. This creates an effective focal length of roughly 200mm, a useful magnification for a wide variety of astro-imaging scenarios. I just purchased a very lightly used Canon 200mm F2.8L II USM for $620 from a great online dealer and can't wait for an opportunity to try it out with my Astronomik CLS clip on a T4i at a dark site. In the past, Ive covered a number of different lenses, from the Sigma 24mm F/1.4 to the Canon EF 300mm F/4L. I would recommend buying it used if you want to save some money, with the added benefit that you can re-sell it at the same price as you bought it for, effectively giving you the opportunity to "rent it" for free. Barney and Chris have been shooting the new Sony 50mm F1.4 GM, and we have a bunch of full resolution samples for you to peruse. SIx months on from buying it this has become my favourite lens ever, beating my previous favourite (Leica's 4th version of the 35mm Summicron for its M-series rangefinders). Your images have a chance at remaining sharper once critical focus has been achieved, but now you have lost the extra light-gathering power you wanted. Or is there a use case for fitting the Samyang 135mm to a Panasonic gx85 (or Panasonic gh5) ?? It just doesn't get any better than this! If you own an EOS Camera - It's a no Brainer, Buy one Available 03/21/23. (purchased for $1,000), reviewed February 4th, 2010 That is kind of the point I am trying to make -- These pictures are really not in another league. I almost bought one, but couldn't manage that focal length and DoF with moving subjects and manual focus. Nevertheless, it performs excellently on most star fields, and is too cheap not to acquire. I think prime users get too used to the idea of bokeh as the only answer. A promising start, no doubt, but not a master yet! Asahi Optical's Pentax KX was one of the first cameras with this lens mount, acting as a midrange model in the lineup. Have not used a 70-200 since. Pentax seems to have put more emphasis than others on keeping the resolution uniform all over the field. Would it at all be possible to at least make sure the people you publish know a little bit about photography? http://www.idyll.com/laney2014 This lens has the Pentax K bayonet mount, and requires the K-EOS adapter for attachment to Canon EOS cameras. Is it possible to get good results on a Baader filter modifed Canon 450D and a good telephoto lens, or do I need to get a good APO? To see even more example photos using the Rokinon 135mm lens (or Samyang branded version), go ahead a perform a search on Astrobin or Flickr, with the appropriate filter. This lens is simply lighter, cheaper & faster (f/2.0 vs f/2.8). As you can see, the magnification of the lens used will dictate the type of projects you shoot. Finally, to prevent image shift during exposure, all telephoto lenses must be supported at two points: at the camera end, and at the far end with a large retaining ring. Great post; thanks for the detailed information. The images were collected using a Canon EOS Rebel T3i camera riding on a Fornax Mounts LighTrack II. An h-alpha filter would still be useful for your D500, but much more so if it were modified! There are quite a few other excellent lenses out there, and nowadays, quite a few that can be used wide open. I have a 135mm f2.8 lens I've used for wide DSOs but mostly I use 200mm. The criterion I used in evaluating lenses was optical perfection with no reservations. Samyang 135mm f2, 100mm f2.8, and asperical 16mm f2.8. This allows for less aggressive camera settings for night photography such as using a lower ISO setting and shorter exposure. After several years off, the venerable magazine has held a public open call photo contest and selected nine finalists and one winning image for its 'Photos of the Year.'. Any experience with this camera and would this lens be a good fit? modest cost for "L" series, wonderful optics and fast speed, nitpicking, but not a circular aperature and no weather sealing. The logic of this article can be applied to a 200/2.8 as well. "If you are a Nikon user, of course have a look at the Nikon AF Nikkor 135mm f/2D DC and compare it to the other lenses mentioned in this article. The focuser adjustment rotates roughly 270 degrees, meaning fine-tuning on a bright star is more precise. I think the bokeh won me over with the cat, as well as the fact that I like animals; the case for the duck was the same. As you'd expect from a premium prime lens, both maximum and average chromatic aberration is very low across the aperture range, with the maximum CA on the order of 0.02% of frame height regardless of aperture. But in the rush to make hybrids why are aren't we giving video shooters the tools they need? Nothing else like it and the reason the two DC lenses have remained in production since they were introduced in 1993. https://www.dpreview.com/galleries/1180017085/photos/3721717/bokeh. Over the years, I have tried more than two dozen telephoto lenses, until I finally found three or four perfect solutions. It's March, and in America that means it's time to start arguing over which college athletics team is the best at basketball. Standards have risen in recent years. Technical Specifications Looking for specific info? My tests on it are described on http://pikespeakphoto.com/tests/canonlens135.html, i have never been a prime lens fan, just seems to leave you feeling trapped in a single dimension. The 135mm f/2.0 ED UMC Lens from Samyang is a manual focus telephoto prime lens useful for portraiture and most telephoto applications. I am a complete amateur at photography in general and this is all new to me so thank you for all the information and videos. As rest you do just by cropping or stitching. If you can tolerate vignetting, there are many normal 35mm lenses that are great wide open. However, they can be perfectly corrected with narrow band H-alpha or OIII filters. 30-35% diameter reduction is usually necessary on "good" lenses. The EOS R6 II arrives in one of the most competitive parts of the market, facing off against some very capable competition. Also, when used as recommended, and properly guided at full camera resolution, they are all comparable to a field-corrected APO, producing perfect images from edge to edge which can be easily cropped 25% with no evidence of aberrations. Above $2500 cameras tend to become increasingly specialized, making it difficult to select a 'best' option. Well, for me. Sure, not all 135mm lenses are lightweightSigma's new 135mm F1.8 is rather heavy at 1130gbut if you look at the Samyang 135mm F2, which is pretty much flawless optically, it weighs only 830g. I do not use burst mode, but the lens would produce movie-like frames. The presentation and hands-on look and feel of the 135mm F/2 lens is impressive considering the reasonable price of this lens. Thanks, It's gross, all is a matter of balance and the perfect one, given you want sharp and fuzzy elements in your picture, is in the blend, and the way details seems to disappear gracefully (while keeping a level of readability). In these situations, a portable, wide-field imaging rig wins. The screws should be set sufficiently tightly to prevent shift, yet not so tightly as to interfere with fine focusing. That means that it doesnt require a robust equatorial telescope mount as a larger, heavier telephoto lens would. i also have the 300mm f4.5 non ED nikkor which is quite nice . Zeiss Jena or Oberkochen? Seems like a great lens. My guidescope is a 5in F5 Jaeger's achromat with a 2.3x Barlow, and a 9mm illuminated reticle eyepiece. It would not surprise me if modern lenses were useable at full aperture. in the rain. @juksu - you're such a hypocrite. So there - it is not a perfect object. The extent of this influence lies mainly in photographer's perception and creativity.As all arts photography may serve given needs due to numerous reasons with the resulting integrity of the work not necessarily suggesting art.The photographic gear (from lens cleaning tissues up to s/w) is just the tool(s) of a photographer in order to produce its work.